Honfleur et Bayeux

I have been wondering about the endless energy small children have. You know, when they just seem to run and run, when all you want to do is rest. I have been thinking that it must disappear before the teenage years, but I think it is more the case that energy is ruled by motivation, whatever the age. People say they have no time to garden, or read, or play sport, when really, they just don't wish to do those things with their time. I have the energy to keep sight-seeing; I want to go to more places, see more things. The kids are tired, but if climbing a mountain was an option, Toby would be up early, and would go all day. The key to a family holiday like this, I think, is to prioritise the things you most wish to see, and, when possible, split up to achieve what everyone wants.

We had a quiet day in Honfleur yesterday, leaving the car alone. Andrew, Beth and I went to the markets just around the corner, and had the best time buying things with my terrible French. The fruit and vegetables were beautiful, so we got some apricots and blueberries, as well as cider, eggs, and crepes.

After the markets, Joss, Toby, Andrew and I went on a walk up the hill to an old chapel.

Expansive views were had from two locations, and then we weaved our way back down the hill.

Honfleur is so very old, and charming. It isn't much fun to drive a huge van down these narrow, cobbled streets, but Andrew has pulled it off twice!

The harbour is just around the corner, lined with restaurant tables under umbrellas.

We spent the afternoon watching le Tour de France, and the evening watching the World Cup - with more walking in between.

This morning we wandered down to the beach where the van is parked. Toby cleared the fountain jets easily, though he wasn't so lucky on the way home, when he attempted a higher jet of water.

We drove to Bayeux to see the tapestry, almost one thousand years old, now. I was worried the kids would be bored, but they kept it to themselves, if they were! The story it tells is quite fascinating, and you listen to it, read by someone who sounds like Derek Jacobi, as you shuffle along the 70 meters of tapestry in a darkened room.

The cathedral in Bayeux is beautiful, inside and out. Toby was most put out that we couldn't climb to the top.

The harbour is lovely this evening, and we are hoping to get down to the beach, seeing as there is no football on!

Tomorrow we leave Honfleur, and will attempt to see the Tour. The plan is to be on the side of the road around 11 or 12 kilometers from the end. We'll see how easy that is to manage....

Belgium and France

It is a bit spooky that Mum and Dad were in Belgium on Bethany's birthday, some years ago, and now we find ourselves in both Belgium and France when those countries face each other in the World Cup semi-final.

We were very sorry to leave our fabulous, spacious, apartment in Ypres (if you are planning on going there as a family, or group, let me know so you can stay there), and after we had packed the car van, we walked back into the main square and bought some Belgian chocolate.

Everyone we spoke to, or who served us, spoke English, which is very lucky as the main language in that part of Belgium is Dutch. The only Dutch word I can think of it poffertjes, and I don't really have any idea how to pronounce it. I also don't eat them, so that is useless. Not being able to make even a tiny effort to speak the local language makes me feel stressed, but I learned to let that go, as there isn't anything I can do about it, now!

Having done French at school is some help, mainly in understanding things the written word. It was all so long ago, and superseded by Japanese, which my brain continues to offer me when I am searching for words in French. Left to my own devices, I would probably stick to English speaking countries, where I only have to worry about how things work, but then I would miss out on some wonderful things.....

Pont de Normandie

The countryside changed when we left Belgium, which was very flat, at least where we were. They grow a lot of crops, and that hasn't changed, but at least there are no hideous Belgian Blue cattle in France, that I have seen, anyway! The north of France undulates gently, and you can see church spires and villages from the motorway, really looking like Tour de France country!

It was about a four-hour drive until we went over the very impressive Normandy Bridge and arrived at the wondrous town of Honfleur, our home for three nights. It's a harbour town, totally ancient to Australians! This is our house:

It has heavy beams, stone, and twisty, uneven staircases. I love it.

This house is two doors up and says '1627' in the stone.

There are bells ringing as I write, perhaps just down the road at St Catherine's.

There are lots of art shops, and shops that sell one type of food. Ths shop sells nougat.

The narrow streets, in our area, are cobbled, and though we did find metered parking just up from our house, it was a significant effort to squeeze the van into a spot, and it would be very expensive and hair-raising to park there permanently, so we drove the car down to the beach, where there is a free car park. After getting the car out of the narrow, cobbled area, we had another scare when, while ogling the amazing houses on the hill, we only realised we were driving on the left-hand side of the road when someone was coming straight at us!

Today, we are letting the kids sleep as long as they want, and we'll leave the car to rest while we explore this gorgeous town.

Goodbye UK, hello Belgium

Reflections on the United Kingdom:

• I love it there, it makes my heart sing
• If I lived there, I would have to be a much better driver - good at reverse parking and maneuvering in narrow spaces.
• London is incredibly busy, but the Tube is brilliant. I don't know how people afford to live there.
• It's amazing how much the scenery and accents change after a relatively short drive.
• I always scoff when, in a book set in the UK, they talk about the heat. I never thought they could really be hot, but the late twenties there, are much hotter in reality, than the same temperatures at home.
• I was very, very sorry to leave.

It was Bethany's birthday yesterday; she is now 14. I didn't really think about that when planning the trip, I don't think an international flight is really the best thing to do on one's birthday, but at least we had until 2pm in Edinburgh.

We hadn't walked over the North Bridge, so we did that, going past the hotel where Tim used to work.

We explored the older part of town, until lunchtime - birthday girl's choice of Mexican.

The Edinburgh Airport experience wasn't as smooth as the Sydney one, and it seems odd to spend much longer at the airport, queuing to check luggage in, and get on the plane, than actually in the air! Not that I am complaining about a short flight, though a free cup of tea would have been nice.

We lost an hour when we arrived in Belgium, and were very pleased to join the shortest queue at customs, for the non-Europeans. It was after nine by the time we got to our hotel, just an airport one, so we just went to bed.

We saw nothing of Brussels, except from the motorway as we drove past in our HUGE Mercedes van! I chose the one vehicle I could find that would take five suitcases, and it also takes nine people.... The kids are enjoying the space.

We arrived at Ypres around midday, and quickly found our apartment. I wish we were staying longer than one night, as it is very nice indeed.

The town is lovely, too, bigger than I expected.

The Menin Gate

Our street is decorated with red, yellow and black bras, for the World Cup!?!

After a walk to explore, I talked Toby into going to the In Flanders Fields Museum with me. It was a bonus for him, as we got to climb the belfry; he does love to climb.

 The views were pretty spectacular.

We had dinner in the square, complete with Belgian beer, chips (did you know hot chips are a special Belgian thing?), and the best steak Andrew has had in many years.

It's a bookshop

We wandered a bit before taking our place, along with hundreds of others, at the Menin Gate, to remember British and Commonwealth soldiers who were killed at Ypres in WWI, and don't have graves. It was very moving. The lady in white found herself moved right out onto the road, with no consideration for those of us behind her!

Belgian chocolates for good measure

The Menin Gate is, essentially, what we came for, and today was our only full day in Belgium. Tomorrow, we have a longish drive to Honfleur. We'll be in the same country as le Tour! Come on Richie Porte!

Edinburgh

I do so love Edinburgh. It is still all glorious sunshine, which makes sight-seeing so easy, but the atmosphere cannot be damaged by the weather!

Today was our only full day here, and left to my own devices, I'd have gone everywhere and done everything, but one thing I have learned about travelling as a family, is that it is best to make moderate targets, and that time to rest is necessary. So, we set out to walk the Royal Mile, from the bottom to the top.

The queen is at home at Holyroodhouse, so it isn't open to the public. The kids were far more excited about the fact that they were close to her, when standing at the gates, than they would have been on a  tour of the palace, so that worked out well. Andrew and I have already seen it, anyway. 

We wandered in and out of shops, marvelling at the ancient buildings, as well as the modern (Scottish Parliament) and when we found a sweet cafe in a tiny lane, we popped in for our first cream tea. I am not about to start eating sweet things regularly, I am perfectly happy and healthy without sugar, but there are two sweet experiences that I want to have while away - a cream tea in the UK, and gelato in Florence. One down, one to go...

We made it up to the top, where the stands are set up in preparation for the Edinburgh Tattoo. Andrew and I have been into the castle before, and the kids weren't that excited at the prospect, so we just admired the outside.

While everyone was watching a kilted duo playing Scottish tunes on violins, something caught my eye across the road. It was a really old building, that seemed to be a museum. When I got there, I found a lady from the National Trust, holding a huge owl. A real owl. It was the most beautiful thing; I was transfixed. Everyone else joined me, and the lady put the big owl away, and got out a fluffy, baby owl (still huge!). Today was this baby's first day in the public, and Bethany was the very first person to hold him. His fluffy feathers will be all gone in around four weeks, and he is just eight weeks old now.

Joss took this photo

 This was a major highlight of our trip. These birds are extraordinary. The European Eagle Owl in the wild can catch and eat foxes and deer!

Bethany also got to hold the dancing barn owl.

After lunch and a little birthday shopping (Beth turns fourteen tomorrow), some of us returned to the hotel to rest/prepare for a big night out, and one of us backtracked to find a missing backpack.

Joss and Andrew are now in Glasgow seeing Justin Timberlake. Joss bought the tickets for the 5th of July, when we were staying nearer Glasgow and had a car, but JT put his tour back a couple of days, so they have ended up with a long train trip at either end of the concert. At least he didn't postpone it for more than two days, because we leave the country tomorrow!

Toby and I were hoping to climb Arthur's Seat this afternoon, but having lost some time to backpack retrieval and World Cup watching, we settled for climbing the Scott Monument. Great views, and the Fitbit floor count is very healthy for today (54).

On her birthday Bethany gets to wake up in one country, and go to sleep in another. We fly to Brussels tomorrow afternoon, though quite late, so we'll have more time in Edinburgh first. I will be sorry to leave the U.K. and am not looking forward to feeling stressed about my lack of French! Still, adventure beckons.....

Serenity

There is definitely something peaceful about having no service on one's phone!

Our cabin for the last four nights was right on Loch Lomond, around seven kilometers up the road from the sweet village of Luss. As soon as we arrived, Toby spotted the looming peak across the loch and set his heart on climbing it. Investigations suggested that it was a job for full hiking gear, boots at the very least, and would take four or five hours. I suggested we climb Ben A'an, something Andrew and I did last time. It was steep enough for me to worry about losing my breakfast; surely that would do!

It wouldn't do, and given that Toby has followed along with all we have done, when he hasn't really been interested, we needed to make it happen.

First, though, we drove over to St Andrew's to catch up with the Hollands, who used to go to our church. Jonathon was at work, but we had such a lovely time with Catherine and the girls. We got to see their new house, one of a row of four cottages in the middle of fields, next to a wood, and the kids played with the girls. They lost two balls over the fence and had fun rescuing one of them from amongst the nettles.

After lunch we followed their car into St Andrew's driving past the famous golf course. They play golf there, apparently. Andrew was impressed. I was impressed by the university buildings, and the ruins of the castle and cathedral.

It's a beautiful town, and the scenery on the way there and back, as well as being able to see and hear about the Hollands' life in Scotland, made it all well worth the drive.

The next day we went into Glasgow, especially for Andrew and Toby's tour of Celtic Park.

The huge building across the road is a velodrome, which Joss was very keen to take a look at. We interacted with three people in order to make this happen, and I had to say "sorry" or "pardon" around six times. How crazy that they were speaking English, but my brain just couldn't decipher it!

While the boys were at Celtic Park, and after we had checked out the velodrome, Joss, Beth and I walked to a local shopping centre. Celtic Park is not in the nicest part of Glasgow, and though we drove into the centre of town afterwards, I still didn't see anything very nice. We missed the lovely parts of Glasgow, and really needed a guide, or to have done more research.

What we did get, however, was a pair of hiking boots each for Andrew and Toby. The following morning, which is yesterday now, they donned their new boots packed water, food, and jackets, and drove off early to conquer the mountain. You'll have to see Andrew's photos to get a fraction of an idea of how beautiful the scenery was from the top of Ben Lomond. Toby pretty much floated up and down again, absolutely loving it. Andrew made it up alright, but did some pretty significant damage on the way down, and is suffering a bit today!

The girls had a quiet day; I did some washing and then walked the seven kilometers or so into Luss. I wandered around the village, full of sweet cottages,

 ... a very pretty church,

... a clan shop with Campbell merchandise,

...and kayaks. This is Toby and Joss. Andrew and Beth were in another one.

We left Loch Lomond this morning and drove to Edinburgh airport to drop off our car. It has been a  good friend for two weeks. Now, we are in Edinburgh, and how I love it here.

Joss' new Docs.

We have wandered, shopped, been to the National Gallery, and out for dinner. Now, the football.